Breaker won't stay on? It's telling you something.
A breaker that keeps tripping is doing its job — interrupting current to prevent damage. The question is what's causing the trips. Three common causes, each with a different fix.
By Steven Lockhart · Reviewed by Alex Towery, C-10 #989290
Updated 2026-06-16
Breakers trip when they detect dangerous current — they're protective devices, not annoyances to bypass. Three common causes of repeated tripping: circuit overload (too many devices), short circuit (hot-to-neutral or hot-to-ground fault), or ground fault (current leaking to ground). Each has a different diagnostic approach and different fix. Never tape a breaker in the ON position or replace with higher amperage.
01The three causes and how to tell them apart.
Overload: breaker trips after the circuit has been carrying load for some period (minutes to hours). The total load exceeded the breaker's continuous rating. Solution: redistribute loads to other circuits, reduce simultaneous device use, or add a dedicated circuit for the high-draw device. Common in older homes where the original wiring wasn't designed for modern electronics + space heaters + window AC + vacuum.
Short circuit or ground fault: breaker trips immediately when you plug something in or turn on a device. Indicates a fault somewhere — could be in a device (most common, try a different device), in a damaged extension cord, in the outlet itself, or in the wiring. Solution: identify the faulted component (often by elimination) and replace.
02Diagnostic sequence to try yourself.
1. Count the devices
Make a list of everything plugged into the affected circuit. Add up wattages. If the total exceeds 80% of the breaker rating (1,440W for 15A or 1,920W for 20A circuits), you're in overload territory.
2. Try with everything unplugged
Unplug every device from the circuit, then reset the breaker. If it stays on, plug devices back in one at a time. The device that causes the trip is the problem (or the last circuit straw that broke the back).
3. Test with a different device
If a specific outlet trips the breaker, plug a known-good simple device (like a lamp) into that outlet. If it trips, the issue is the outlet or circuit, not the device. If it doesn't trip, the original device is the issue.
03When to stop troubleshooting and call.
If the breaker trips immediately with nothing plugged into the circuit, the issue is in the wiring itself — a damaged wire, failed outlet, or wire-on-wire short somewhere in the circuit. This requires electrician diagnosis with circuit tracing. If the breaker trips when the panel is opened (you can hear it click) without anything else changing, the breaker itself may be failing and needs replacement.
If you've reduced load to obviously safe levels and the breaker still trips, the breaker has likely degraded and is tripping below its rated current — replacement needed. Diagnostic visits for tripping breakers run $240-$420 in Marin; correction varies from $0 (load redistribution only) to $200-$1,400+ (wire replacement scope).
Common questions.
Can I just replace the breaker with a higher-amperage one?
Absolutely not. The breaker is sized to the wiring it protects — replacing a 15A breaker with a 20A breaker on 14-gauge wiring means the wiring can overheat without tripping the breaker, which is a fire scenario. This is one of the most common DIY mistakes that causes residential electrical fires. If your circuit can't carry the load you want, the answer is wire upgrade or new dedicated circuit, not breaker upgrade.
How often is normal for a breaker to trip?
Rarely — once or twice a year if you've just plugged in too much, fine. Multiple times a month, monthly, or any pattern of repeated tripping in the same circuit is not normal and indicates either ongoing overload or developing wiring/breaker problem. Schedule diagnostic visit when the pattern emerges; cost of diagnosis is much smaller than cost of fire from undiagnosed circuit issues.
Why does my GFCI keep tripping?
GFCIs trip on tiny current imbalances between hot and neutral (typically 5mA) — they're more sensitive than breakers. Repeated GFCI tripping usually indicates moisture in an outlet (exterior, garage, bathroom), a failing GFCI device itself, a wired-up-stream device that has minor leakage current, or wiring damage that allows tiny ground faults. Same diagnostic sequence as breakers, but the sensitivity threshold is lower.
What if it trips when I'm not home?
Tripping when nothing is running suggests either: an automated device (refrigerator compressor cycle, HVAC startup) is the trigger, intermittent wiring/breaker fault that doesn't require any user action, or ground fault from moisture in damp seasons. Diagnostic visit can use a recording ammeter to identify what's happening when it happens. We sometimes leave a logger in the panel overnight to capture intermittent issues.
How do you handle pricing — flat fee or hourly?
Both, depending on scope. Routine service calls and predictable scope (panel replacement, EV charger install, transfer switch install, fixture replacement) are flat-fee quoted up front. Diagnostic visits and emergency scope are hourly because we don't know what we'll find. Either way, you get a written quote before work starts on anything significant, and we don't proceed beyond the quote without your sign-off.
How quickly can you schedule?
Depends on scope and season. Emergency dispatch: same-day across Marin County (1-3 hours business hours, 1-4 hours after-hours). Same-day standard service: 3-6 hours from call when capacity allows; otherwise next business day. Scheduled service work: 1-3 weeks typical. Larger projects requiring permits and PG&E coordination: 4-12 weeks depending on scope. We're upfront about timeline at the quote stage.
What warranty do you offer on work?
Our standard residential warranty: 2 years on labor, manufacturer warranty on parts (varies by product — typically 1-10 years). Major installs (panels, generators, EV chargers) often have longer manufacturer warranties (5-10 years). If there's an issue with our work in the warranty period, we come back and fix it at no cost. We also stand behind work past warranty — repeat customers and referrals matter more than a transactional fix.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. California State License Board C-10 Electrical Contractor #989290, in good standing. Carry general liability insurance and workers' compensation insurance as required by California law. Bondable on projects requiring it. Happy to provide proof of insurance to clients or property managers on request. License lookup: cslb.ca.gov.
Talk to a licensed electrician in Marin.
Family-run, C-10 #989290, 20+ years in the trade. Honest scoping, fair pricing, work that lasts.